Anyone know when Zorros is?
It would be nice if they dont clash.
Anyone know when Zorros is?
It would be nice if they dont clash.
PVC sheet is dirt cheap and easy to work. But you cannot see through it, if that matters
The knife will be plenty strong enough with the hole at that point. The scales will be OK too if you bring them far enough foward but they would be close to, or over the cutting edge. My preference is for the scales to be close to the start of the cutting edge, so you can get good power cuts, but not overlapping, but this is your knife so do what suits you.
You could always drill another hole further back for a fixing pin and cut the scales so they hide the existing hole.
I have considered building a small enclosure on the outside of my workshop and installing the fan inside.
The fan would draw from under the grinder and vent into a large drum with water in the bottom. Most of the dust should then settle safely into the water.
The drum then vents into the enclosure where any remaining dust will settle out leaving little going into the environment.
A bit of soundproofing on the enclosure to minimise noise.
As long as it is all cleaned out regularly there should be little risk of fire or explosion.
Havent built it yet but one day.
The sharp corner at the back of the handle might be uncomfortable in use.
If the handle is long enough to stick out the back of your hand it might be OK but your handle looks fairly stubby so the corner will stick into your hand.
Its not a big deal though, you can always grind it off later if you find its a problem.
I can't help much but to say be careful, you will be making lots of sparks and these can cause a fire or explosion in a dust extraction system.
+1 on getting a lathe. Useful for all sorts of things.
In the last few months I have used mine for making:
A roller to replace one lost in garage door mechanism.
All sorts of jigs, fixtures, punches etc for knife making.
Modifying pivots and screws
Contact wheel to exact size I required.
A stabiliser set for my Recurve Bow and extender for a freinds sights.
A razor handle - sadly lost by the Royal Fail
A bearing for a wheel on a chair trolley for a church hall.
Modifications to a freinds wheelchair.
A part for a freinds vintage car windscreeen frame.
A tool for pressing bearings in and of my bike wheels
and many more I cannot think of right now.
I do now wonder how anyone can live without one
It was nice to get back in the workshop today after some weeks out.
HT finished, 3mm RWL 34 at 61 Rc. I am planning a hollow grind on this one as I have a couple of contact wheels that have been lying idle for several years. Probably G10 scales, bevelled and dremmelled.
At 6 1/2 inches I am not sure if it counts as a true Kiridashi but I am not keen on tiddlers and I looked up the definition of Kiridash and it is definately a pointed knife. Good enough for me!
Are we showing progress or leaving for a grand reveal when we are all done?
Mine is profiled and hardened - tempering as I type
3. Steve J
7. William Cassidy
Can I suggest we make the Kith for a Kiridashi or a small Neck knife? It gives more options and might appeal to more people.
There are similarities between the two types and work/materials wouldnt be much different.
3mm or 1/8 inch carbide drills are relatively cheap and wont make you cry when you break them - which you will.
Buy 3 or 4 of these and use appropriate size pins. If you need to drill for a lanyard tube you will obviously need a larger drill.
I always keep a few stubby carbide drills in these sizes when making file knives and have to drill hardened steel.
Stub drills are possibly less likely to break but if you are going through scales and tang you may need the longer normal size drills.
I didnt get much work done over the Christmas period and now have a problem with the detente pins being too soft.
These were made specially and I am pretty sure that the makers omitted to do the heat treatment or used the wrong material.
It should be just a matter of making them again but with e-mails going to and fro, Ht certificates being looked up, samples being posted (and lost in the post) etc etc time just keeps rolling by. Very frustrating.
So my apologies but I cannot give an eta for the first deliveries yet.
PS Neil Mc and Valhalla, I have put you on my list but cannot promise anything.
Using washers instead of relieving the liners does have its drawbacks. For example your blade will need to be thinner than the spring by exactly twice the thickness of the washers or you will get gaps. Difficult without a surface grinder. Alternatively you need to mill a recess in your liners to exactly the same depth as the washers - which is harder to do than just relieving them.
There are ways of relieving a liner without a mill. Chemical etching can be used. Alternatively if you have a pillar/bench drill and a milling cutter you can make up a simple jig to rotate and relieve your liners by hand. Googling shouldl find info on both these methods.
Another method I have contemplated for slip joints with Titanium scales (but never tried) is to make your liners from thin phosphor bronze sheet and file out the areas you dont want. This would make everything fit nicely and could look nice too. Something I am going to try at some point.
Ti cuts fine with a hacksaw, but you need good quality blades and they will not last long. Go slow and use cutting oil. Same with drilling, good quality, sharp new bits, go slow and use cutting oil. Same for grinding but dont use the oil
I have three left
All were blue but have had the anodising blasted off and have been tumbled
The laser anodising looks interesting, can you get different colours?
Knife design looks fine, just dont expect Titanium to hold an edge.
A stand is easy enough to make up from a piece of board, if it doesnt have the same weight as the WE one then you can always clamp it to your bench/table.
I made up my own inverted T shaped stand and sit on the floor in front of the TV with it held firm under my legs.
The more expensive models now have a different pivot design for the waggly rod things. The older design can be a bit awkward at times - at the extremes of movement, they can lock up if you dont use the correct motion. Not a deal breaker but I suspect the improved design (I havent used them) was produced to eliminate this and might be worth choosing for this reason.
If I were buying now I would be tempted to go for one of the models with the latest blade clamp and the ball joint wagglers. Make do with less stones and add more later when funds allow. But this wouldnt be cheap!
I just stumbled across Aaron Goughs video on Blade Forum and remembered this thread.
Anything goes as far as I am concerned as long as the maker is honest about how he/she makes knives. If a buyer is aware of and OK with how the knife is made, everyone is happy.
I suspect that I approach knife making in a similar (but less extreme) way to AG and can understand why and how he has ended up making knives the way he does. If you are making alot of the same thing, it makes sense.
Much thought, planning, preparation and learning/training has gone into his set up, I suspect he has invested a considerable sum too. Running and programming a CNC machine, designing and building all the jigs, and fixtures and refining his procedures (I bet he has them) takes a lot of time ingenuity and skill. I guess this is what he is good at or prefers to do, so he uses these skills to his advantage.
Working in this way does two things (in my opinion) Firstly it removes a lot of the unskilled, boring, hard work bits of knife making and speeds up the process - does any maker enjoy endless hacksawing and grinding profiles? If you are making a living from knife making, this is good.
Secondly it takes out some of the risk, the risk of cock ups. Every jig, program and procedure makes the process more reliable, less stressful and reduces errors. If you are making a living from knife making, this is good too.
Does a knife made in this way have the same 'soul' as a hand made knife?. I am not sure on this one, it is essentially a factory made knife, but if you like it and it does what you want, its a good knife! I do suspect that in the long run there will be less reward from making the same thing over and over, even if it is very good.
I do look at Mr Goughs workshop and think of all the more interesting things he could do with his CNC machine, but he needs to make a living and he seems to be doing so. Good luck to him. I am just looking foward to the Aaron Gough, fully contoured, integral, titanium folder that would justify all that cnc potential
Hope you make a speedy recovery!
A fellow knife friend commented that you may have a few extra for sale every batch - would this be the same case at this time? Terribly sorry for asking but I missed the boat terribly but there aren't any folder fitting for my need other than your knife. Thanks!
The extra ones are spoken for too. I will put your name down but cannot promise anything.