Posts by monkeyboy_marcus

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    Thanks for the top tips fellas. Great improvement with test piece clamped tight to mdf, going in first with smaller bit and second with the final size bit. Tried it with paper super glued to the underside unsupported and it splintered. Tried it with paper super glued to the underside clamped to the mdf and got a slight improvement compared to without the glue. Much less hassle than my original approach.

    Any tips on drilling carbon fibre and not splintering the other side?


    Tried using a smaller bit first which produces a small splinter but given I'm only using a 2.2 bit for the final clearance hole the splinter damage is still apparent. Tried slow/fast speed too with no appreciable difference in results.


    Only way I've found to be successful is sandwiching the cf handle between two identical waterjet cut titanium blanks, clamping and drilling from either side but this is fiddly and time consuming.

    Ah, I see now thanks. Re-reading your earlier post I note that you stated to cryo after hardening not between tempers, it was just that the other literature I'd come across mentioned adding a cryo stage between the tempers. Next time!

    Heat treated blades before (RHS)/after (LHS) 1.5 hours in the tumbler with coarse RSS angle cut triangular ceramic media. Should have really sorted out the flats before now:




    Titanium handles before - lockbar side had been buffed with a scotchbrite wheel and the other side had been bead blasted:




    Titanium handles after 1.5 hours in the tumbler with coarse RSS angle cut triangular ceramic media:








    Early days - reckon they'd need another 5-10 hours at least but definitely seeing a nice finish coming along, especially with the pre-bead blasted one.

    Managed an average 58 Rockwell (thanks to pieinthesky for testing) score using the following recipe:


    1065C 25 mins, quench between 1" thick alu plates, first temper 200C for 2 hours and cool to room temp, dry ice cryo for 12 hours and cool to room temp, second temper 315C for two hours and cool to room temp.


    Reckon I'd go for a higher austenitising temp next time ad add a third temper, which should bring the Rockwell score up to about 60.


    Sharpens to hair popping edge :-)

    Back from the distributer: "Yes the machines are powerful for their size and in fact the AV75 has the same motor as the AV40 – meaning that the AV40 is the more powerful. These motors have 220 W and 1.0A (operating Amps). Even with the most dense and heaviest media we find the movement is great".

    Yeah, I was pretty surprised at the price having seen the 'frost' types which are all around £150.00. Had a long chat with several distributors and they convinced me that for what I want to do, it is worth investing in a more powerful, robust machine. From my web/you tube research the 'frost' types were OK for rust removal/polishing small parts but wouldn't make much of an impact on titanium or heat treated blades. It'll arrive tmw along with three different types of media, so that's my evening sorted!

    Just been speaking with the distributer about these machines and the difference is capacity rather than power/performance. The smaller one should allow the size of blade/handle components that I produce to circulate through the media exactly the same as the larger one, although the larger one will complete the job faster but time isn't exactly critical for me and I'd rather not spank a further £700.00 at this point. I did look into the 'frost' type of machine since they are much less expensive but some of the reviews I read seemed to suggest they wouldn't give me the stonewash/working finish I'm trying to achieve. Should be arriving tomorrow, watch this space...

    Absolutely awesome mate, great effort.


    Learning fusion 360 myself and cnc milling. Regularly spend hours watching those same you tube vids! Wouldn't have learned half the skills I now have without Mike/Ekim.

    Finally got around to playing with the blast cabinet (instead of writing tedious reports this afternoon):




    Seems pretty easy to get a reasonable finish (right), although I did no prep work and should probably have wiped it down with acetone.


    Nice not to have fingerprints immediately marking the handle (as in the left).


    Would be nice to darken the titanium so it isn't as 'sparkly' - any tips of this, maybe oxidation of some sort?

    Will eventually be selling these, once I'm happy with the design. Still working on the pocket clip. Handles/blades are waterjet cut but all holes are then drilled/tapped on a manual mill and the handles are contoured by hand. Once I get the Tormach 440 up and running, this should hopefully be more automated. Not a slippy, framelock with blade that deploys via thumb stud once it overcomes the hoback roller detent, in place of a detent ball.


    I'll have a go with the bead blaster this evening and see what finish I can get with the hardware. In theory, I guess the small components can be held in some sort of fixture or maybe block of plasticine or similar...

    Hailon - installed some of your blue ano'd hardware to a WIP knife - very nice. Will look even better when I've bead blasted the handles, with the shiny blue contrasting nicely with the matt finish. Actually, just a thought but can you ano a bead blasted finish? Guess this would avoid the fingerprints issue...