ER Collet System.

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  • Do you guys find that the collet and what ever cutting bit you have in it at the time doesn't want to come out? I've found this to be the case no matter which size collet/bits I'm using, when it comes time to change the bit, there's no way that I can pull the bit or collet for that matter out by hand. I keep all the collets and bits clean, stored in cases so dirt etc isn't the issue.


    Is that groove around the collet there for a C spanner or similar to help aid with removal of the collet??


  • Stating the obvious.. the taper on the collet locks the tool when you tighten the collet nut. When you release the collet nut you should be able to extract/change the tool without removing the nut (& collet?) All collets are spring tempered & should spring to a clearance of the tool Ø allowing easy insertion/extraction. This dose'nt seem to be happening here & seems to defeat the purpose of having a collet system! I would would suggest speaking to the supplier!

  • Mine does the same. What KBE says is true but it doesn't always work on mine, I suspect it is when the shank diameter of the tool is close to the upper range of the collet.


    I have a piece of Ally flat that I put in the groove and tap with a hammer. It never takes much to loosen it off.

  • I've only used the smaller ER16 collets, but they also click into place in the nut - not a straight push though, they need to be inserted at a slight angle.
    Colin


    My set is ER25, I tried a couple of different collets this morning, no matter what I tried, at an angle etc, they are not clicking into place. I then checked the suppliers website for any more information, interesting they say to rotate the collet into place,.....that doesn't work for me either.


    http://www.warco.co.uk/262-148…x/collet-holder-er-25.jpg

  • My set is ER25, I tried a couple of different collets this morning, no matter what I tried, at an angle etc, they are not clicking into place. I then checked the suppliers website for any more information, interesting they say to rotate the collet into place,.....that doesn't work for me either.


    http://www.warco.co.uk/262-148…x/collet-holder-er-25.jpg

    I use ER25 collets and collet holder, and never had this problem.
    Engaging the nut in the groove can be tricky. Milling cutters seem to have standard shanks, most of mine are (from memory) 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, so I choose a collet that is 1mm bigger (i.e. a 6mm shank in the collet marked 6mm - 7mm). For drills, I usually choose a size up.


    I remove the nut from the holder, put the shank of the tool through the collet, then engage the nut in the groove of the holder. I find that easier than trying to line up the parts while they're in the machine. Then I fit the collet into the holder, tighten by hand and set the amount of tool I want to stick out from the holder, and then tighten the nut with the C spanner.

  • I use ER25 collets and collet holder, and never had this problem.Engaging the nut in the groove can be tricky. Milling cutters seem to have standard shanks, most of mine are (from memory) 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, so I choose a collet that is 1mm bigger (i.e. a 6mm shank in the collet marked 6mm - 7mm). For drills, I usually choose a size up.


    I remove the nut from the holder, put the shank of the tool through the collet, then engage the nut in the groove of the holder. I find that easier than trying to line up the parts while they're in the machine. Then I fit the collet into the holder, tighten by hand and set the amount of tool I want to stick out from the holder, and then tighten the nut with the C spanner.

    Is it a turning/screwing motion that works for you? like the Warco site states.

  • I've always thought that milling with a drill chuck were a no no because the 3 jaws just don't provide enough support for sideways forces??

    You are right @earthman. There is a lot more I could say on this principle but I hope you get the jist of what I mean in the following...


    Sideways force in milling is determined by feed (hand or power) & the condition of your cutting tool (e.g. a slower feed & sharp tool can lessen the 'sideways force' applied.) If we scale everything down (from heavy engineering to model-making) then a drill chuck can come into consideration for use by the model maker. I have morse taper collets & a reasonable drill chuck.
    For removing a lot of metal (in quantity) I would always use a collet first. However I would no consider changing over to this & would be quite happy to use a drill chuck for light work & small cuts up to 1½ mm in stainless... or if I had time: quite happily take more cuts for a deeper removals.


    cheers
    John