Grinding / shaping ?

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  • @xellos99 could try using a jig or a plunge guide, I've had good results with both. However, I've just found that regular practice is key - been grinding a blade every night since before xmas, got piles of them all over the place! Until I got some waterjet cut folder blade blanks, I was just profiling the blade shape using wickes mild steel and then (much better) GFS 01 steel (i.e. making no handles) and working through 36 and 60 grits with no expectation I was going to produce something worth progressing. Funny but its like you progress one step forward and two steps back, as a result of getting more confident and trying something new, then messing up but learning from the experience. Very often, something will just click and you have a minor eureka moment but in the process you'll probably have ruined what you were working on. Pleased to say I'm able to produce consistent results in either direction and I'm sure you will too very soon.

    Yes I made a jig but found that because of the design of the jig, when I switched the blade to the other side I would get different result. So I thought to hell with making a better more accurate jig, I will try to get good at flat grinds free hand if I can. I'm not bothered about other grinds, if I can do flat grinds I will be very happy since its my favourite overall. I have 6 more blanks so will try one a day every day and see if I can improve each time

  • Check out ekim knives you tube videos - very instructive. Other thing that upped my game was getting some good lighting. Used a head torch initially and now have a couple if led work lights. Also getting used to "letting the belt do the work". Looking back, the first 20 or so attempts were hideous but eventually you produce simething you're proud of!

  • Just seen this thread now, the two wheel grinder posted early on is what I use. Picked it up for under £400 and it's serving me well, if I had the money I would have opted for a KMG style unit. That being said you can still produce some good knives on it. It is limited to hollow grinding which I prefer but there's also a flat platen on top which allows for flattening or tapering of tangs. I only grind freehand, it's the way I was taught, quick and easy once you get a feel for it. The grinder is fairly aggressive and can remove metal fast which works for me as I like to use thicker stock, also makes cutting plunges easier.


    For grooves and contours I use a dremel with the small sanding drums, let's me hold the knife in my hand when I'm handle shaping as opposed to presenting the knife to the grinder. Does require more hand finishing this way as the drums are only available in lower grits. Using smalls wheels and a slack belt would be a better alternative but that requires a variable speed grinder.


    As for belts I use 36 to taper tangs, 60 for bevel grinding and jump straight to 240 from there, this allows me to maintain crisp grind lines. Scotchbrite loaded with green compound gives a nice satin finish.


    Hope this helps


    Kam

  • They're all junk unfortunately mate, just practice fodder and mostly water-jet cut profiles. The photo looks better than reality - I've blown through most edges by taking the hollow too far up but then I'm not trying to make anything of them at this point, just gaining experience. Couple of quid each for an hour of "reward" ain't a bad return. Going to trial a new magnet-mounted hollow ground cut-out table shortly - have high hopes it'll produce consistent results! Just a suggestion but maybe don't spend time profiling your handles and just practice on the bevel grinding until you can make the rest worth investing in.