Straightening bevels

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  • Evening hive.


    I have a question for the collective. I have a wakazashi I'm working on and I didn't use a jig due to the length (and just wanting to boss it free hand) but I've ended up with a bit of a faceted blade. What's the suggestions on fixing it?


    At the moment I'm swithering on either draw filing, which will take forever due to the length. Or trying to set the angle with my jig with the grinder off, clamping it to the work rest and using it as a guide to draw the blade along against. Probably with the speed on the belt set right down so it's not eating the blade.


    Are there any other suggestions or feedback on those?


    Cheers guys.

  • It is just practice I'm afraid , big blades are not easy until you get an established flat , lower grits are much easier as they grab the steel , once you get up there it starts becoming a bit slippery for want of a better word so the temptation to push harder takes over , when really you should back off a touch , golden rule of course , fresh belts all the way if you can .

  • As always, thanks for the advice. I've purposely kept one of each grit unused for this very project. I'll just keep working at it and see where it takes me.


    It's just a little like chasing a problem and causing two more. I'll stop trying to approach it at exactly the same angle each time in 2 inch sections and try and draw the same angle down the whole blade.

    • Helpful

    I'll stop trying to approach it at exactly the same angle each time in 2 inch sections and try and draw the same angle down the whole blade.

    yes , for sure! It needs to be an even sweep with a fluid movement . This is all I have to try and show , a little clip from a year ago ,and not the best angle at all , but just try and approach the platen in the same spot , with the same grip with the same movement each time .



  • This was a big problem for me when I started making , jig or no jig I used to have the lumps and bumps you speak of I found it was as I put the blade to the belt it was at a slight angle ,the edge of the belt was hitting the knife first rather than putting the steel flat to the belt

    I also found by keeping the steeling moving as I hit the belt helped remove this problem although I still get one or two low spots now an then , hard hand sanding with a flat block helps remove the dips

  • I have always ground without a toolrest or jig. I see there are good ocasions for both but Find that the grind lacks the subtlty that freehand grinding on the platten does.

    If I am getting multiple bevels here is what I do.

    I would ink the blade with a sharpie, and then try and feel the bevels I have on the blade against the platten with the grinder off, this will give me my range of bevels . I can then take a best guess at inlarging the mid bevel into the others. with the blade penned you can see exactly where you grinding. other clues are the amount of shadow behind the edge against the belt to let you know if you are grinding the edge or not.

    re apply pen if you are not certain about exactly where you are grinding as often as needed.

    A sharp 36 grit for any alterations, as a sharp belt will take your subtle orders rather than follow the multiple bevels you already have.

    I try and grind an area to good form and then use that as a feel reference to push the good form down the blade, that way your cock ups are localised and you can go back to good form, to reafirm what that is.

    Grind some scrap to get your feel in and go back to your real project when your confidence is high (use a fesh belt!)