Show your Paper Wheel edges

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    • Show your Paper Wheel edges

      Some here know i like my Paper Wheels for sharpening knives, but it can't be that i'm the only one on this forum.
      From time to time i will post my results here and i hope that others will do the same, :)

      Here's one i did a few weeks ago, a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in Elmax steel.
      The factory edge had some light brown discoloration near the tip on one side, traces of some unknown black stuff that couldn't even be removed with acetone (visible in pic 1 & 3), and it could also barely cut copypaper.

      This is how it looked before sharpening:
      (pics can be clicked 2 x)



      First i removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times in a silicon carbide stone, then resharpened it with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, followed by removing the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
      This time i also polished the bevels a bit more with the same Wheel, just to see how the Elmax would do.
      According to my Tormek angle gauge the new edge measures 30 degrees inclusive, can slice single ply toilet paper and easily whittle the hairs on the back of my hand from heel to tip.









      The post was edited 1 time, last by kwakster ().

    • Spyderco Paramilitary 2 in CTS-20CP steel.
      The previous owner tried to sharpen it on an Edge-Pro, which sadly resulted in quite uneven bevels, several chips along the edge, and a piece of unremoved burr.
      I removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then resharpened it to an almost exact 30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel with 1 micron diamond compound.
      Although i couldn't get both bevels exactly even in width, the new edge is now treetopping sharp without chips or burrs.
      I call this a bling & bite finish, as to the casual observer it may look like a mirror finish (diamond compounds cut very clean), but when inspected up close with a loupe you can see a fine scratch pattern perpendicular to the edge that still provides for enough bite for most EDC tasks.











      CTS-20CP data sheet: cartech.com/toolsteelspowder.aspx?id=3686

      Comparison between CTS-20CP and CPM-S90V steel: bladeforums.com/forums/showthr…ghlight=CTS-20CP+Ankerson
    • A Chinese Ganzo 704 like i received it from Hong Kong:





      A very nice knife for the money (i paid about 17 US dollars including shipping from Hong Kong to the Netherlands), but with quite an obtuse edge angle of about 35-40 (ish) degrees inclusive and also a bit blunt not a very good cutter.
      On the blade it says 440C stainless steel, but it's more than likely it's Chinese cousin 9Cr13MoV.

      Reprofiled with a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit to 30 degrees inclusive, refined it just a bit with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 1 micron diamond compound.
      It cuts hair above the back of my hand and can slice single layer toilet paper.



    • An older one, a user custom Jens Anso from a Dutch knifeforum member after a tune-up by a Dutch knifemaker.
      Part of the tune-up was a two-step stonewash treatment of the RWL34 blade, which unavoidably also removed the original edge.

      I put on a new edge using a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, refined it with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel with some 1 micron diamond compound
      This leaves an edge that looks almost polished, but has way more bite than when finished with the polishing Paper Wheel using standard aluminum oxide.

      Before sharpening:





      After sharpening:





    • Also an older one: a DPX Hest folder with D2 steel blade from a Dutch forum member.
      This one was reprofiled to an ever so slight convex edge of between 25 and 30 degrees inclusive on a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, then refined on a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally i removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel.





      Close-up of the 15 micron finish:

    • Another earlier one, this time a user Spyderco Military in S90V steel from a Dutch forum member who requested a little more bling.
      First i used a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, followed by a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste as well as a third Paper Wheel with 6 micron diamond paste, after which the tiny burr was removed on the Tormek leather wheel.
      It's not a true mirror edge, as with the magnifying glass in my Victorinox SwissChamp i can still see fine scratching, but with the naked eye it's close.
      Sharpness is hairwhittling (both to and from the root) and it can also slice single layer toiletpaper with ease.



    • Custom Sponaugle 154CM droppoint hunter Loveless style from a Dutch forum member & professional hunter.
      The knife has been in use for some time, and it was kept more or less sharp by the owner with the help of a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
      However, due to the original edge angle being somewhat too large (35/40-ish near the heel developing into 35/30-ish towards the point), and also being a bit uneven keeping it in working condition was becoming a nuisance, and the point becoming rounded was not helping either.

      A new very slightly convex edge of almost exactly 30 degrees inclusive was made with just a standard Paper Wheel, after which i removed the burr on my Tormek leather wheel (the edge keeps a little more bite that way, which works better for hunting knives imo)
      The new edge now transitions smoothly into the ricasso and there's a new point too.

      Before sharpening:











      After sharpening:







    • A Strider SMF with S110V blade from a Dutch forum member.
      According to my Tormek angle gauge the old edge measured +/- 40 degrees inclusive from the heel to half an inch before the tip where it changed into 45 degrees inclusive.
      The owner uses this knife mostly to cut various kinds of green wood & twigs in horticulture, and had already tried his hand at reprofiling the edge himself with a DMT Diafold.
      Together we came to the conclusion that the edge could do with a full reprofiling, as well as with a finer edge finish to better suit his specific purposes.
      BTW: the owner also contacted Duane Dwyer by mail, among other things to ask him about the hardness of this S110V blade, and according to Duane it measures 61 HRC.

      This was the knife before sharpening:







      After reprofiling & sharpening.
      The new edge angle came out at +/- 32 degrees inclusive along the entire edge, and it can treetop armhair and slice single ply toilet paper.
      Probably due to having the flu at the moment my hands didn't do exactly what i wanted them to do, and as a result i didn't manage to get both bevels completely symmetrical.
      Grit progression: a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC for reprofiling, a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound for refining, and a third Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound for removing the tiny burr.







    • A while ago i reprofiled & sharpened this Ontario Afghan Bush in (probably) 5160 steel for a Dutch forum member, who when he received it tested it quite rigorously to see how the the knife would hold up with it's new edge.
      The pictures show the knife with it's new edge measuring 35 degrees inclusive, a 15 micron diamond compound Paper Wheel finish, and a treetopping sharpness.







      This was the mail i got from him when he was done testing:
      (translated from Dutch)

      Hereby i send you the results of the batonning test: my arm hurts and the knife just laughs at me.

      I started with batonning through some standard firewood, which didn't cause any problems.
      Then i proceeded to baton right through a hardwood pole with a big burl (?) in it (with a lot of effort from my side)
      I then replaced the baton with a hard rubber hammer for a bit more comfort and hitting power, and with this i managed to drive the edge about half an inch crossgrain into another piece of tropical hardwood.
      After this i cleaned the knife, and the edge would still pushcut through paper.

      I almost forgot to mention that i also put the knife sideways with the point on a wooden block and gave it about 20 hard whacks with the rubber hammer on both sides of the knife.
      Then i tested the point strength by stabbing it into hardwood and breaking it free sideways.
      I think the knife already has endured more than it will ever have to in real life.

      After all this i could still shave the hair on my leg on skin level, and after a bit of stropping it could treetop again.



      When the customer is happy then i'm happy, :)
    • A rather large Strider fixed blade for a Dutch forum member.
      According to my Tormek angle gauge the factory edge measured 50 to 55 degrees inclusive and it wasn't very sharp either.

      Grit progression: reprofiled on a standard Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC, refined it a little with a second Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a third Paper Wheel coated with 0,25 micron diamond compound.
      The new & slightly convex edge measures around 35/36 degrees inclusive, and can both slice single layer toilet paper and treetop the hairs on the back of my hand.







    • This brand new Endura ZDP-189 sadly had a less than optimal factory edge, and since this beautiful steel deserves better i reprofiled & sharpened it myself.

      Before sharpening.
      My guess is that these knives are belt sharpened and then have the burr stropped of on a buffer.
      On this knife however it seemed like the buffer ran out of cutting compound (or the sharpener just did a sloppy job), as through my loupe i could see remains of a burr almost along the entire edge. (some of it is partly visible in picture 2)
      Due to this the sharpness was of course severely lacking.
      I also measured the edge angle to be 35 degrees inclusive, which i think is a bit too large for a folding knife in ZDP-189 steel.





      After sharpening.
      First i removed the old apex by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, then reprofiled the edge to a slightly convex +/- 25 degrees inclusive angle with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 micron diamond compound.
      This leaves the scratch pattern created by the 15 micron diamond particles intact as much as possible, creating an edge that with the naked eye almost looks like a mirror, but which has the bite of a coarser edge.
      I call this a "bling & bite" finish, and i have found it to work very well in EDC use on harder high carbide steel types.
      It's also quite difficult to show correctly in pictures, as the lens of my cheap camera has a tendency to show more of the scratch pattern than can be seen in reality with the naked eye.

      With the reduced edge angle & the much finer edge finish the knife will not only cut in a completely different league, it can now also be kept sharp on the 30 degrees slots of a Spyderco Sharpmaker or Lansky Turnbox.









      Specs:

      Length open: 22,2 cm
      Length closed: 12,7 cm
      Blade length: 9,6 cm
      Blade thickness: max 3,0 mm (ricasso)
      Edge length: 8,8 cm
      Steel: ZDP-189 powder steel
      Hardness: 64-65 HRC
      Weight: 103 gram
      Handle material: British Racing Green FRN on steel liners
    • A few weeks ago a knife collector asked me if i could sharpen the false edge on a Gerber Applegate Fairbairn folder.
      On this knife the blade is completely shrouded by the handle when closed, so there is no risk of injury while carrying it.
      The owner also wanted the new bevels to be a bit shiny.

      This older YouTube clip by Nutnfancy showcases this mod:



      This was the knife before sharpening:











      And the result.
      Ground the new bevels with a Rubber Wheel coated with 230 grit diamond powder, then refined all bevels with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound, and finally removed the tiny burr remnants with the Tormek leather wheel & some 1 micron diamond compound.
      The edges measure 35 degrees inclusive and are treetopping sharp.







    • You've been busy!!

      I have always admired your edges, in fact they were the best we found when we were considering using a photograph as part of the EM logo.

      So in theory, could you do everything you do on your Tormek on a belt grinder running at low speed with a large diameter contact wheel and appropriate belts? Or would it be too much hassle, and much easier to just buy the Tormek?




      Wood stabilising & resin: packratwoods.uk


    • My plan is to help fill this forum with some good reading material & pics for all to enjoy :)

      I have no idea if i could get comparable results on a belt grinder (currently don't have room for it), but i'm already quite happy with my current combination of a Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone together with various Rubber and Paper Wheels, most of which i modified to use diamond powder or compounds.
      Due to the use of water with detergent on the Tormek and both wax & oil on the various Wheels i also never experience overheated edges.
    • This thread started by RichardJ on Bladeforums contains a lot of useful info about sharpening with Paper Wheels:

      bladeforums.com/forums/showthr…-time-is-important-to-you

      Many of my pics here are also posted there.

      Since i'm a bit of a tinkerer i modified a few standard Paper Wheels to work with diamond compounds, at first to be able to sharpen & polish ceramic knives and later high carbide steel types.

      The post was edited 3 times, last by kwakster ().